Triumphant women in the wine world: Richard Esling, March 19

Like many trades, for a long time the wine and spirit trade was a male dominated domain, with barely a look-in from women, who were deemed unknowledgeable of such things.
Pouilly Fuisse Domaine FerretPouilly Fuisse Domaine Ferret
Pouilly Fuisse Domaine Ferret

Thankfully, this situation has changed dramatically and, in many countries, and most sectors of the trade, women are on an equal footing with their male counterparts.

Almost half of all new Masters of Wine in recent years have been women and some of the best wine critics in the world are female, such as the hugely knowledgeable Jancis Robinson MW.

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In certain countries, those in central and eastern Europe for example, the acceptance of women winemakers is still lagging behind, but as those that do break through the glass ceiling often make exceptionally good wines, acceptance is gaining ground rapidly. In the spirit world, so to speak, male dominance is still a significant factor as, unimaginatively in my mind, spirit making is still seen as a thing that men do.

I remember an interview with Christelle Lasseignou, a young woman producer of Armagnac at Domaine Maouhum, gascon for ‘bad smoke’ resulting from the family house burning to the ground in the mid 18th century. Taking over the business when her father died 15 years ago, she now runs every aspect of an expanding business, producing around 12 barrels of Armagnac every year, with each barrel containing 420 litres.

Christelle had a very hard time being accepted in a male dominated environment. It wasn’t her customers who were the problem, but her peers and employees, all of whom were convinced she didn’t have a clue how to make Armagnac, because she was a woman. However, through perseverance and standing her ground, she proved them all wrong, with her Armagnac gaining an array of awards for its quality and the business going from strength to strength.

Throughout Western Europe, there are many highly regarded women winemakers, something undoubtedly to celebrate just after International Women’s Day.

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Highlighting the fact that some wines are made by women shouldn’t have to happen, as it should be taken for granted, but sadly discrimination still lurks beneath the surface with some consumers.

Domaine Ferret, in the prestigious Maconnais appellation of Pouilly Fuissé, was founded in 1840 and currently owned by the top Burgundy company, Louis Jadot. The winemaker and manager of the estate is Audrey Braccini, currently involved in converting the 50-acre vineyard to Biodynamic production – several steps beyond organic. She continues a tradition of women winemakers at the estate going back to its origins in 1840. Made from 100 percent Chardonnay grapes, the careful wine-making technique produces a wine which is delicately balance between body and freshness. Oak is used judiciously so as to enhance rather than mask the fruit flavours, resulting in a wine with considerable depth and length, yet with balanced acidity, stone fruit flavours and notes of hazelnuts and orange peel. Fabulous quality made with care for both the quality of the product and the land from which it comes. Stockists for the 2017 vintage: North and South Wines, Fareham Wine Cellar, Great Western Wines (£25-£35 per bottle)

Richard Esling BSc DipWSET is an experienced wine consultant, agent, writer and educator. An erstwhile wine importer, he runs a wine agency and consultancy company called WineWyse, is founder and principal of the Sussex Wine Academy, chairman of Arundel Wine Society and is an International Wine Judge. Follow him on Twitter @richardwje.

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