Tutto, Brighton, review

Tutto is the most recent venture from Brighton success story the Black Rock restaurant group, which includes The Coal Shed, The Salt Room, and Burnt Orange.

However after 12 years of unbroken success with the above trio (and an additional branch of The Coal Shed at Tower Bridge, London) last September’s launch of Tutto threatened to break that run after a delayed opening followed by a temporary closure.

But it’s still very much open for business and trade was brisk on a late afternoon Monday it was looking rather splendid. both inside and out, bathed in some all too rare rays of summer sun.

It’s located on Marlborough Place just a few doors away from the slightly less gorgeous (but always good fun) King and Queen pub, in a big old building that was once a banking hall, with accompanying skylights, and ceilings that would make you neck ache.

The light and airy, with a comfortable modern feel, there’s a warm amber glow from the immaculately-lit bar which looks great with the dark blue bar seating and teal tiles.

There’s also plenty of bright artwork, with bold shapes and colours that aren’t a million miles away from Paul Klee’s palette.

The cocktail menu features a good number of original creations including Cherry Amore (don’t tell Stevie Wonder) a fruity little beast which packed in Malfy Gin, Staralino Rose, Maraschino cherry, raspberry and Lemon Juice, and a Limoncello Spritz (instinct impels me to order Limoncello in every Italian restaurant, although not normally quite so quickly).

In addition to the new cocktails the menu reassures the punters that the Tutto mixologists will knock up any classic cocktail you fancy.

There’s also an impressive wine list, which takes in wines from all over Italy and surrounding islands and Tutto’s use of Coravin, a wine preservation system, means that many of those wines are available by the glass, we, rather temperately, enjoyed a glass of balanced and lightly fruity Sicilian Grillo, and a vibrant Dolcetto d’Alba, Vajra from Piemonte.

The Tutto menu suggests: ‘Bring everyone – eat everything.’

Everything seemed a tad excessive but the Taste of Tutto Prestigo selection offered a wide selection of the Tutto’s small plate menu for £46 per person sharing.

Nine dishes and an utterly amazing pud (more on that later) covered a lot of bases, including fish, seafood, meat, and veggie plates.

The focaccia, was served with balsamic and warmed olive oil, which seemed like a nice touch.

A generous criss-crossed stack of crispy tenderstem fritto, was covered in grated Pecorino, the hugely popular Italian cheese (especially in Rome) which is a little saltier than Parmesan and with a squeeze of lemon was perfect for the fried dish.

The sea bass crudo was a highlight amongst proceedings, the delicate uncooked shavings of fresh fish were gently accompanied by zingy dressing, fennel and pickled lemon.

A plate of cold cuts were similarly enlivened by some particularly good oil, and it was good to enjoy some Mortadella, which instantly put me in mind of the open sandwiches and bar snacks served in the bars of Bologna.

Your reviewer valiantly agreed to swap the beef course of Onglet Tagliata, corni di torro peppers, for his pesky pescatarian dining partner.

The resulting baked aubergine Parmigiana was a comforting chunk of veg, tomato and mozzarella, but when a plate sliced onglet appeared on a nearby table I forlornly gazed at it until my dining partner told me not to.

But we were impressed by our waitresses willingness to switch the dishes, and her attentiveness was exemplary throughout.

The plates continued to come our way, including a couple of wood-fired Gamberi Rossi, colossal crustaceans in paprika butter and more than a little garlic (naturally).

Similarly, the perfectly cooked mussels, on a plate of al-dente spaghetti nero with a silky tomato and saffron sauce, were also fairly plump and the only disappointment was that there wasn’t more of it, for once a slightly bigger ‘small plate’ wouldn’t have gone amiss.

The best dish came last in the form of a hazelnut chocolate torte, which can be seen being lovingly hand-finished with a chef’s blow torch on the Tutto website.

Rich, creamy and dreamy, it’s the most indulgent part of the menu and greatly aided with the addition of syrupy Maraschino Cherries, and vanilla ice cream.

If Burnt Orange, Black Rock’s most recent opening prior to Tutto, was billed as a grown-up late night hangout, Tutto could perhaps be it’s stylish and slightly less rowdy Italian brother, and a great place to while a afternoon or evening with a cavalcade of dishes to graze on, with a few glasses of cleverly preserved vino.